First, the best point to remember of all is this: just because an oil is good in a lotion or leave-on product, does not make it a good candidate for converting it into soap. In large enough quantities, some saponified (soaped) oils can feel like taking a shower with lotion - no lather, greasy after feel! Some can go rancid too quickly (and who wants a rancid soap??). Some are just plain too expensive for use in a wash-off product. Others have components that the lye does not react with and therefore it does not saponify (turn into soap via a lye reaction) at all. Mineral oil is one such example. Jojoba oil is a close second in that category as it does saponify, but only a small part of it does - making it unsuitable for use in soap, except in minute quantities (it is also generally too expensive for many to put into a wash-off product).
Our soaping formula in action! Testing an essential oil blend out - rough life!
Without getting too in-depth about my formula, I will say that I (along with most other soapers) am always looking for that balance of cleansing, bubbles, lather with conditioning, moisturizing, and long-lasting bars. Bars that are too conditioning, with too much oil left behind can leave you feeling like you didn't get completely clean, and it can also mean little-to-no lather. Bars with too much lather and a very low superfat (superfat = a calculated excess of soaping oils that are left over in the bar and do not turn into soap) can make for a very drying soap that strips the skin. Balance is key.
Soap hardness and durability are another factor. We are always looking to create a harder, longer-lasting soap. Handmade soap cannot sit in water for any length of time and it should be allowed to dry completely between uses. We cure our soaps for 6 weeks in order to help produce a hard bar. Shea butter and coconut oil also helps achieve the same goal. Over a long enough period of time, olive oil also produces a very hard bar. We have started to include sodium lactate as well - this is a naturally derived salt from fermented corn or sugar beets, often used in the dairy industry (yogurt!).
A bar of soap gone rancid. This one came from another soapmaker and contained soybean oil. It lived in my bathroom drawer for less than a year before I noticed the brown/oily spots.
One final word. Any soaping formula is subjective. There are many different types of soaps out there, many different formulas (we use three here at OHTC!), and everyone feels soap differently. What might be "just right" for a mechanic's greasy hands is likely far too drying for my winter skin! And while many folks enjoy shea butter in their soaps, not everyone will. There's also something to be said for additives and essential oils when it comes to what they bring to soaps. Honey, milks, colloidal oatmeal, silk, clay, and even essential oils can all alter the skin feel of the final soap. We use these to our advantage here - it's not all about the scent or the color that these ingredients can give. It is, however, a happy side benefit!
I hope that this has helped you to understand the limitations of soap making and the reasons why we soap makers love the oils and butters that we do!
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